Last night I escaped after dinner to the boat shed to keep the momentum established over the weekend. All the fairing and bevelling was with the intention of glueing the garboard strakes. The most interesting part was as I was dry fitting the garboard strakes to see the angles of the curve of the board at each floor.
What happened after that was a lot of epoxy… Pre-coating the surfaces with unthickened epoxy to sink into the fibres, then applying epoxy thickened with West Systems 406 colloidal silica. For the next couple hours my latex gloves were wetted with epoxy and I had started a process I could not stop.
When I finally pulled off the gloves, the two garboard strakes were on, all the squeeze out epoxy cleaned off and it was one in the morning. Fortunately gluing is quiet so I did not bother any of the neighbours. It will be interesting to see how the second strakes line up, in the meantime it feels good to reach this milestone.
Today my brother Maël helped me with the beveling of the stems. This will create a bigger mating surface for the planking. This will provide a mating surface for the planks.
We did the bulk of the work with the power planer and then finished with the block plane and the spokeshave. I did notice that because the laminated stem has alternating grain, it is important to have a sharp blade to avoid ripping out any of the grain.
I also managed to do the glue up of the rudder assembly.
Next up will be setting up the station molds and getting ready to bevel the keelson. This boat will soon finally be taking shape.
Today with the help of my children we tackled building a couple shelves to make more room for tools. We also started working on the assembly of the retractable rudder. The plans show a little guide or sheave for the line that rudder pulls the rudder blade down. Figuring what to use for this rather unique spot took a little creative thinking.
Experience in working on gyprock and mudding all the joints and corners and having to then sand them down to a fair blend to the straight board stock, is that it is worth spending a little more time sanding even if to the eye and to the fingers it appears to be smooth.
Once I add the unidirectional carbon fibre and epoxy I will certainly discover new spots that are not quite right for the centreboard and rudder NACA profiles. Sanding down epoxy is much harder than bare cedar.
I’m feeling fairly confident about the shape now and I’m looking forward to adding the epoxy and carbon fibre.
This beautiful cedar will soon disappear behind layers of carbon, Kevlar and graphite. The only part of the boat I felt would benefit from additional strength beyond just wood fivers.
I’m looking to work with the plan dimension for the rudder of 1 1/8″ thick section but trying to make the thickest point of the profile 1 1/2″ so that the rudder has a NACA 0010 profile that has a higher stalling angle. This is probably overthinking the foils on my part, but since it is relatively simple to do why not?
Last night I got back out to the boatyard and spent a couple hours planing down the shape of the board to the depths I’d marked with the kerfs I made with the pull-saw. This technique is really helpful to keep tabs on the progress as I was using a power planer then a block plane and finally a random orbital sander with 60 grit paper.
Once I got the taper cut for the leading and trailing edge I worked on rounding out the leading edge with the sander as well as the two ridges on each side.
The next step is to get ready to put some uni-directional carbon fiber on the sides and some kevlar fiber on the edges.
today I glued the rudder blade and the rudder assembly. It seems premature as the boat has not taken shape yet. But it is part of my space management approach to do all of the flat tasks while I have the flat surface in the strong back.
The apron and stems took much more expoxy than I had anticipated. This time I splurged and bought the gallon of resin and hope that I won’t have to make a trip back here soon. Note that the 15′ 2×6 douglas fir on the Larry vs. Harry handled fine.
Having access to a thickness planer makes this activity much easier and more precise. I was able with relative ease to plane the whole length of both the apron and stem down to the specified thickness on my own. I did spend some time fretting about keeping the angles square and not ending up with a weird parallelogram that would give the bow a weird twist. fortunately the thickness planer coupled with a square and some judicious hand planing kept everything progressing smoothly. When planing the apron down to the right 2″ thickness i was sure to keep checking that it was square.