After two layers of grey primer and three layers of Cloverdale paint marine maintenance alkyd enamel on the boat I’m hoping I’ve laid down enough to give this hull a good start.
I had anticipated this day and spent quite some time chasing down 1/2 round brass rub strips in Canada.
I finally found that the best source for me in Vancouver was to order from Alaska Copper and Brass and go pick it up at the shipping warehouse at 225 North Rd, Coquitlam.
I was able to get the lengths I needed of 3/4″ half round brass as well as 1/2″ half round brass.
The next step was to drill the holes and countersinks for the bronze fasteners. I used a prick punch to set the spot for the drill press to set nicely and not slip off the convex shape of the half round.
I then used a countersink bit to drill out the space for the bronze screw to sit in nicely below the surface of the half round.
et voila 30′ of drilled brass.
All that was left is the filing of the ends into nice rounded shapes.
The next step of fitting it to the keel and the runners was relatively straightforward. I was just careful to drill pilot holes and carefully screw in the silicon bronze screws.
This capping off of the keel really felt good. I still have some 3 – 4′ ends left of the 1/2″ and 3/4″ half round and I look forward to installing it in critical spots on the gunwale and other spots where the rope might chafe.
Monday I returned to see the dry hull with the first coat of primer. It was a transformation to no longer see all the epoxy at joints and fairing spots and to see the hull’s form become more prominent as a cohesive unit and less the individual parts.
I proceeded to sand down everything lightly to knock down the fibers that were kicked up by the primer. After vacuuming and wiping down once more I added another coat of primer.
This time the second coat completely obscured all the discolorations from the epoxy below and the hull is a uniform grey. We came down today after school / work to check it out.
And my assistants approve of the progress. It is going to be exciting to add colour to this hull.
Yesterday after consulting Ian Oughtred’s guidance on whether or not to paint the hull with epoxy before painting. He is adamant that it is not a good idea. So I decided to go straight to priming the hull.
My next resource is the small book by Joni Blanchard “Tricks, Cheating & Chingaderos” a collection of knowledge and tips for varnishing and painting wooden boats.
I liked her suggestion of wiping down with denatured alcohol to try and have the surface as clean and dust free as possible. The only problem is try finding denatured alcohol in Canada. You won’t find it in the paint section of the hardware store. I found it as burning ethanol for garden fireplaces and stoves at Rona called Bio light. Otherwise the other option was marine stove fuel or 99% isopropyl alcohol à the pharmacy. But that only comes in small containers.
I also found a neat little tool to mark the waterline in such a way that it would remain visible under the paint.
It comes from our sewing kit. And leaves a nice little series of small bumps.
I’ve sanded and added low density fairing epoxy filler to the parts that needed it. Then the process of sanding continues. Each time a thin layer of dusts covers the hull everything appears more fair and smooth. This dangerous as I have learned when mudding drywall, what lies beneath needs to be exposed to be sure there aren’t any bumps, holes, bubbles or ripples that would be even more apparent once the paint is applied.
The work has progressed in small increments on the hull. Each step did not really reveal a significant visual transformation that might show up on the camera. But they are small changes that will allow the hull to look great once painted.
I glued up the keel and the stems:
and after a few repeat visits added the keel pieced on either side of the centreboard slot.
Then we got to work sanding and planing down the keel and stems so that they were fair to the eye.
and distracted myself with paint selection ideas:
and put fillets of epoxy mixed with low density fairing filler in all the laps.
I then decided to add a small rub strip of wood on the lower edge of the sheer strake. The idea being that I like the way in helps to frame the sheer strake and that it might also serve a small function as well.
The last step before really getting down to the final preparation for painting is the outer gunwhale.
After a few days spent fitting the stems and trying to get the fit nice and snug, I finally said to myself: good enough any small gaps left will be filled easily by the thickened epoxy.
The bow section of the keel was too stiff to form to the curve of the hull so I ripped it into two strips that fit nicely under the stem in what I hope will be an elegant scarf. I had looked closely at the plans where Ian Oughtred seems to show the outer keel glued on top of the bow stem. But the piece I laminated seemed to be easier to scarf in this way. The length of the glued surface is shorter, but I’m fairly confident the joint will be plenty strong.
The stern stem was a similar decision, however I did not have to rip the keel into two strips.
So switching up the tasks from laying the strakes is a big shift and the boat is really feeling substantial under my hands now. Each action is now in relation to this compound shape and having to add or remove material to fit something new. I have started working on the stems.
Just placing the outer stems on the hull before I had done any preparation just started to transform my conception of the hull further.
I have now started to plane down the faces of the stems to match the curve of the outer stems I had laminated with the inner stems months ago.
I have now also cut the douglas fir stock I had been keeping for the outer keel pieces.
I decided for simplicity’s sake to build the keel in four pieces and glue it together rather than shape one single piece of wood with the centre board slot cut out. This approach should be just as strong and offer much more ease of building.
I have also started to look for materials and hardware that will be needed. most pressing will be more fir for the gunwales which I still have in stock. Early in the process I bought rough dimensional 2×4 fir from Dicks lumber that was still green. It has now seasoned for several months, I used some for the stem lamination and kept the rest for the outer keel and the gunwales.
So the hardest piece of hardware for me to source in Vancouver so far has been the half oval brass rub strips to go on to protect the keel and stems. Either it is not possible to ship from US based distributors to Canada or shipping from Classic Marine in the UK would be cost prohibitive. I did find Tendercraftboats.ca
who are based in Ontario as a supplier of 1/2″ half oval but not 3/4″ half oval that is necessary. Their catalogue was however very good and I was able to find 6″ long bronze machine screws for the rudder gudgeons that will get through both the outer and inner stems.
I also found that the supply a bronze bow eye that will work well with a 6″ machined bolt. Peter at Tendercraft boats has been very helpful and I am looking forward to my shipment arriving.
For the half oval after some searching I considered UHMW (ultra high molecular weight plastic) which was done by Yeadon on his Hvalsoe 18. I found a quote from Associated Plastics that was almost the same price as what I found from Alaska Copper & Brass who have an office in a suburb of Vancouver for brass half ovals. Going trough their catalogue I was able to find exactly the half oval dimensions I was looking for. Both 3/4″ and 1/2″ in 12′ lengths. I will end up with a little left over which I’m sure I’ll find used for elsewhere on the boat as rub strips or chafe protection.
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