This was profoundly satisfying. I used alkyld paints from Cloverdale paint on Terminal Avenue in Vancouver. The colour scheme is inspired by @captainMax’s (on Flickr) Sooty Tern in Sweden.
I like the bright colours. I hesitated a long time with something more like black with a thin yellow or light blue stripe. But in the end decided that white highlighted de clinker construction more.
I taped the waterline that was still visible through the two primer coats and went to work painting.
Two hours later it was all done
I rolled and tipped with a brush to fairly good effect. I just found that the “nice roller” I’d selected lost quite a lot of fuzz. So I’ll have to do a bit of sanding before the second coat.
Monday I returned to see the dry hull with the first coat of primer. It was a transformation to no longer see all the epoxy at joints and fairing spots and to see the hull’s form become more prominent as a cohesive unit and less the individual parts.
I proceeded to sand down everything lightly to knock down the fibers that were kicked up by the primer. After vacuuming and wiping down once more I added another coat of primer.
This time the second coat completely obscured all the discolorations from the epoxy below and the hull is a uniform grey. We came down today after school / work to check it out.
And my assistants approve of the progress. It is going to be exciting to add colour to this hull.
Today was a turning point. I put a roller in a tray of Cloverdale paint alkyld primer and started to hide the wood.
the first few strokes of primer
Yesterday after consulting Ian Oughtred’s guidance on whether or not to paint the hull with epoxy before painting. He is adamant that it is not a good idea. So I decided to go straight to priming the hull.
My next resource is the small book by Joni Blanchard “Tricks, Cheating & Chingaderos” a collection of knowledge and tips for varnishing and painting wooden boats.
I liked her suggestion of wiping down with denatured alcohol to try and have the surface as clean and dust free as possible. The only problem is try finding denatured alcohol in Canada. You won’t find it in the paint section of the hardware store. I found it as burning ethanol for garden fireplaces and stoves at Rona called Bio light. Otherwise the other option was marine stove fuel or 99% isopropyl alcohol à the pharmacy. But that only comes in small containers.
I also found a neat little tool to mark the waterline in such a way that it would remain visible under the paint.
It comes from our sewing kit. And leaves a nice little series of small bumps.
This is the part where the changes are almost imperceptible but where so much of the final appearance of the boat rests.
I’ve sanded and added low density fairing epoxy filler to the parts that needed it. Then the process of sanding continues. Each time a thin layer of dusts covers the hull everything appears more fair and smooth. This dangerous as I have learned when mudding drywall, what lies beneath needs to be exposed to be sure there aren’t any bumps, holes, bubbles or ripples that would be even more apparent once the paint is applied.